woensdag 5 februari 2014

More roof action

Another 7B+ in the Katla Cave (7C before the 'downgrade wave') went down! 'Blumen aus Südafrika' shares the start of Drachenrachen (which I found to be the hardest part when I climbed it last year) followed by a more direct finish. From a good - but painful - fistjam a huge span leads directly to the lip of the roof. Putting your feet next to the fist and making some sort of a foot jam (it comes much closer to hanging from your toes though), it's possible to release the fist jam and go for the good holds over the roof edge. The most surprising thing to me was how easily I could climb the first half, which was a big struggle last year. This time I discovered that I could skip the handjam alltogether, making a long reach to the next hold halfway the roof. Last year I couldn't pull this of, lacking the required body tension. Now it felt easy! After I discover this, it took only a few attempts to climb Blumen aus Südafrika. I made a video of the ascent, but the Katla cave was too crowded to film from multiple angles. Consequently the result is very basic, but I'd like to share it anyway. Also shown is the ascent of the 7A highball 'Die Welle', which I found too thin and scary to climb again and risk my ankles for a fancier video:


During these visits to Avalonia I also started investing time in 'Ölkrise'. It is graded 7B+ as well, but feels much harder to me than all the burly roof climbing of the Katla cave. Technically it's a traverse along a roof edge, but it rises gradually and climbs much more like a super steep arête. With only small, widely spaced holds it's a real test of my finger strength and my ability to maintain body tension on small holds. Last year I couldn't even do several of the moves individually. Now I discovered that I could do them all. The line can be cut in two logical halves (with an alternative exit for the first half). The Ruhrtal locals have named them 'Kleine Ölkrise Teil I' and 'Kleine Ölkrise Teil II' and graded them 7A+ and 7B respectively. I've managed to climb them both in two sessions and started making good links of the complete line. Logically, I can't wait to go back. Climbing Ölkrise will be a step forward and quite possibly my hardest ascent yet!

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