zaterdag 29 maart 2014

Three old men on the rocks

Having an unclimbed project gets on my nerves. I've managed to deal with the fact that there's an 8a closely within my reach waiting for me in Grotte du Brotsch for more than half a year now. Yet I'm obsessed enough with it to still be able to visualize every single move, hold and foothold on the route. Adding 'Strontium 90' to the project collection though was a bit too much to handle: I simply had to get back to it. Luckily, Matt is just as impatient as I am. This time Erik, psyched by the photo's and stories of our previous visit, came along as well, eager to try a 9+ that doesn't realy look that hard from the ground... Somehow that it deceived Matt and me yet again despite knowing how hard both cruxes felt on our previous attempts. Optimistically we shared Eriks hope of ticking off Strontium 90 today.

I'll spoil the ending: instead of finishing one project, we all ended up going home with two. To make things worse: I know I should have climbed the new project - 'Opium fürs Volk' (7c) - on my second attempt, but I wasted the power required for the crux move on an unnecessary clip...

Matt tackling the top crux of 'Strontium 90'. Note his fashionable hair band, doesn't he look just like Patrick Edlinger?
After a couple of attempts on Strontium 90 I felt fatigued again and my fingers were getting sore of the powerful, steep moves on the unergonomic pockets and edges of the first crux. I peeled off a layer of skin from my fingertips by trying the top crux just once. Wanting to do some different moves on different holds, I turned my attention to Opium fürs Volk, half a grade easier but steeper and more sustained, with the hardest move right at the end. After working my way up doing all the moves, I was blown away by its beauty. Every single move is interesting, technical and demanding, feeling much more like bouldering than typical sports climbing. Athletic throws, delicate balancing on small sidepulls (in an overhang!), pinching, beefy undercuts, heel hooks, compression moves and a deep lock-off are all packed within just 12 meters of rock.

Steep power endurance climbing in 'Opium fürs Volk'. Photo taken by Erik.
I completely forgot about Strontium 90 and gave it a serious attempt. I arrived at the crux near the top and still felt strong. An unclipped quickdraw dangled before my nose and the big undercling in my hands was the last good hold until after the crux. I decided to clip, but underestimated the steepness of the wall and as I wasted a few precious seconds on the clip, I felt the energy being drained from my forearms. I struggled to do the first crux move, heard myself scream and managed to do the second. But then I fell, empty. The next attempt was weaker, but (after a small midways rest) I climbed the top without clipping: much better! While Matt and Erik burned away their last energy by failing to climb an apparently silly hard old-school 8 (in Ith 7a's can be hard...), I rested to prepare for a final attempt. As soon as I set off, I found a good rhythm, moving fast, steady and precise. Within moments I found myself at the big undercut again. I skipped the clip, positioned my feet and made the big, dynamic lunge to catch a small, slopey dish with my left hand. I repositioned again and moved my right hand up into the compression position. My feet cut loose, but somehow I managed to hold the swing and get my right foot into the heel hook. With empty forearms, I bumped up my right hand. To my surprise, it caught the small two finger crimp and I didn't feel the weightless sensation of falling. I bumped up again, to the sloper. Again, I stuck it, not knowing where the strength still came from. One more move. Just one more bump up, less than 30 cm, to the redeeming jug. When I released my right hand to move up, if felt my body going down instead. On the last centimeters it failed on me and I started to fall into the void beneath me.

Compression climbing and heel hooking in the crux of 'Opium fürs Volk'. Photo taken by Erik.
Instead of being frustrated by another day without any successful attempts, I felt pleased again. Coming so close at the end of the day after being beaten up already by Strontium 90, I know I can do the route when I get back fresh and well-rested. Opium fürs Volk made me experience the battle to hold on for life when all muscles want to let go, to fight gravity when all the body wants to be pulled down again. After half a year of bouldering and trying to do the hardest possible moves, I had forgotten how indescribably intense and addictive the feeling is. For me, it's the essence of sports climbing and it's exactly for this reason that only climbing hard gives me the satisfaction that I seek. That said, a sustained sequence of 15 to 20 committing moves is enough for me. I like power endurance climbs and I'll leave the 30 meter pumpfests to others... I found a perfect one today and it's a treat to have this project to come back for!

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